Green Tencel Twill Kalle

I love sewing with scraps, it’s so satisfying making a garment out of what are essentially waste materials. When I ordered 3m of tencel/cotton twill I was planning to make dungarees but changed my mind as to whether I would wear them. So I made a beautiful Grainline Farrow dress which I love and have been wearing a lot but which definitely does not require 3m of fabric!

The Grainline Farrow I made with the fabric first.

So what to do with the scraps? I decided on a cropped Kalle shirt as I hadn’t made one before and wanted to toile it – what better fabric to use for a toile than scraps? Based on my measurements I cut out a straight size 10 but having read lots of reviews saying it’s REALLY cropped I decided to add an inch to the front and leave the back how it is. I am glad I did this as I think the length is perfect for me.

Other than this adjustment to the length, I didn’t make any changes to the pattern. However, I did make a mistake whilst assembling – I used a contrast fabric for the inner yoke as the scraps weren’t enough, and I didn’t realise I had sewn it the wrong side out until after I had graded all the seams because it is sewn using the burrito method! Unfortunately when I unpicked a resewed the yoke and shoulder seams after grading, I did lose a bit more fabric than I’d like and it is a little tight on the shoulders. Don’t make my mistake and triple check which pieces would face out!

This tencel twill also didn’t love the hem facing part of the construction, it shifted and (thanks to all the curves resulting in lots of stretch on the bias) it really wanted to pull out of shape. I managed as best I could but can confidently say this first attempt isn’t my best work – the second version I made of the Kalle in quilting cotton is much neater and I definitely recommend using a stable cotton/linen for a first attempt!

I am making it sound like this was a nightmare make but I thoroughly enjoyed it, there is something about making a toile that feels low-stakes and takes all the pressure off. The resulting garment is wearable and I still took the time to topstitch, add a nice label and generally make it nice. I even chose to use special buttons I bought on a lovely day out with my friend Patsy who is an amazing sewist and you can read her blog here. Ugh, days out with friends seems like a lifetime ago, fingers crossed that we will be able to do that again soon!

This outfit is my first foray into the ‘dress like a crayon‘ idea by What Katie Sews. I loved seeing everyone’s outfits but didn’t have enough non-crazy-prints in my wardrobe to actually make a crayon-like outfit. What do you think? I really like it! The trousers are these green linen arenite pants.

I was so excited to take these pictures in the snow this week, we are currently in lockdown here in the UK so the pictures were taken just outside my house but I had fun taking them nonetheless! Stay safe everyone!

4 thoughts on “Green Tencel Twill Kalle

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